Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Skin on frame , Strip built , Stitch & glue , Lets see whats happening in the boat shed.
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Benlore
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Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby Benlore » Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:06 am

I am building my first stitch and glue sea kayak. The build manual recommends that I buy a plastic hatch system for the day hatch and back hatch. I may still do this, but would like to see if there are some good wooden hatch systems that people can recommend as an alternative. I want to keep the lines minimal and clean if possible.

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allan
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KAYAK: Strip built sea kayaks, TK1 and K1s, SOF Sea kayak,TC1, C1 all designed with Kayak Foundry.
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby allan » Wed Sep 14, 2016 4:13 pm

I do something like these two sites describe.

Go to the "How to" section on this site
http://www.blueheronkayaks.com/kayak/index.html

This page and the next few describe the process in detail.
http://oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop19.htm

Mine look like this. They are flush and fairly inconspicuous.
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Mac50L
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby Mac50L » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:12 am

Benlore wrote:I am building my first stitch and glue sea kayak. The build manual recommends that I buy a plastic hatch system for the day hatch and back hatch. I may still do this, but would like to see if there are some good wooden hatch systems that people can recommend as an alternative. I want to keep the lines minimal and clean if possible.

Two things, do people actually use their day hatch system?
Clean flush hatch - how much volume is lost by going that way? Does it matter in your case?
I basically do a cockpit rim style lip, neoprene cover and a plywood cover over that held down with bungies. Previous hatch covers were done by gluing a quarter round rubber round the edge of the hatch on the deck side and holding the cover down by two bars that gripped under the deck and where screwed or cam levered down for compression.

Going back to the first question, anything needed at sea is in a deck bag and the items needed when on the beach include a thermos, lunch items (milk, cups, sandwiches, fruit, etc.) these are usually all from one of two kayaks. Something to sit on maybe, sunshade?. A bit much to stuff into a small day hatch. Meaning it depends on how you travel.

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Benlore
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby Benlore » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:52 am

Thanks allan, that is exactly what I am looking for. Next question is: how water tight are they in your experience?

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allan
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Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 5:27 pm
KAYAK: Strip built sea kayaks, TK1 and K1s, SOF Sea kayak,TC1, C1 all designed with Kayak Foundry.
Location: Tuross Head, NSW
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby allan » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:09 pm

They are somewhere between very good and excellent.

However, there are a couple of things that can make a big difference to how good they are.

If the shape of the lip is very close to the shape of the hatch, that is a good start.

A thin rib all the way around just in from the edge on the hatch itself so that the rib presses down into the rubber gasket helps it seal. That rib only needs to be about 1mm or 1.5mm high at the most.

Drilling a small hole in the bulkhead allows the air inside to expand and contract. Without that, there is a tendency for the contraction of the air when the first water splashes over the deck to suck water past any spot where the seal isn't perfect. Without that hole, if the seal is perfect, then the hatch can be almost impossible to open when the air inside cools and contracts.

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Benlore
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby Benlore » Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:53 pm

@ 50MacL, Thanks for your tips. I use my day hatch on every paddle. It has a spare set of thermals, a sponge and some spare energy bars. I plan to use the larger back hatch for things like fold up chairs, stoves etc. for longer day paddles and lunch on the beach. Not planning on taking this one overnight.

Mac50L
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Re: Wooden hatch designs wanted.

Postby Mac50L » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:28 pm

I'd definitely back Allan's suggestion of pressure release holes in bulkheads and I do it to all our kayaks. The hole is in the middle of the bulkhead so is as far from water level no matter which way up the kayak is. About 1 mm - 1.5 mm should do. To make sure there's no exposed wood, a larger hole epoxied over and then a hole through the epoxy, if bare wood is a worry.

The "not planning to take it on overnight trips" means lost volume is not a problem. Except for the thermals in the day hatch, the rest of the items mentioned go in our deck bags. Easy to access on the water.


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