Boatsie wrote:Downside is with thought, how much energy of further leverage will be allowed to be redirected toward loom? Might make more sense to chunk the far end to throw with but then far end heavier. Lol.
Pretty sure just chiselling a channel and living with doubt. Might hand bit spare piece for bathtub play
Boatsie wrote: Just channeling a little bit for more thrust. Like a lacrosse stick. Can throw ball with flat stick though.
Mac50L wrote:Western red cedar will be as light or lighter and certainly easier to make. Use the epoxy you have to glue the parts of the paddle as per the URL below.
Can you use a Greenland paddle properly now? If yes, then no real problem, just slide a hand out alternatively from the loom for each stroke.
If no, then you need to learn to use one properly. They are used like Wing paddles. Try stroking with arms straight. This will force you to use body rotation. Then bend an elbow to remove the downside blade out of the water. With body rotation, the blade in the water moves away from the kayak and the difference between a GP and Wing is you need to set up the angle of attack of the leading edge (blade cant) while the Wing paddle tends to do this automatically.
Note - anyone who says you need to use a low angle stroke with a GP hasn't watched YouTubes of good GP paddlers paddling at speed. The stroke is as vertical or more so than an Olympic racing paddler's stroke. At 5 knots my paddle is near vertical during the power stroke.
A GP will not, can not, flutter if used correctly.
https://sites.google.com/site/kayakamf/ ... nd-paddlesTransfers Orly
Same size except the loom is two fists long or even shorter.
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